Drinking in Bristol

The Thali Café

There's nothing like strolling through Clifton on a sunny Sunday morning. Something about the auburn trees, neat gardens and perfect townhouses brings poetry to the autumnal air. Then your vision jars. Can it be? No, surely that's not a pink elephant swinging from a shimmering, glitterball of a restaurant? You walk on, sure that this must be a mirage between the chi-chi coffee shops. But it's real. Then the sign comes into view, and it all becomes clear. For this is the long-awaited Thali Café.

With branches already well-established in Easton, Montpelier and Totterdown, the One Stop Thali is one of Bristol's best boasts. Its aim is simple. To take the flavours of roadside Indian cuisine and serve them on a circular metal dish (or Thali) to the chicken tikka-munching British masses. And how grateful we should be.

Having frequented the Easton outlet for many years and never wanted for anything more than its rich, warm interior, we were a little concerned that the Clifton branch just wouldn't match up. We needn't have worried. Admittedly, the vibe is altogether different here – think light and airy eatery punctuated with hot pinks rather than mahogany and mulberry colour schemes. But, somehow, the décor only stands to accentuate the lightness and freshness of the food itself.

Unsurprisingly, the menu is the same – diners are given the choice between a Northern or Southern thali, and that's it (indecisives anonymous, this is the place for you). Both couldn't be further from your typical British 'curry', gripping your senses with soupy dahls, Keralan salads and refreshing yoghurts, while the Southern steers away from spiced vegetables and paneers with a succulent Goan fish dish. You'll note that what you get in each is remarkably similar. The real distinction between the two lies in the flavour, with the Southern replacing the Northern's conventional spice with a fragrance that's hard to put into words.

For those who want an eco-friendly takeaway, there's also the award-winning concept of Tiffins – stainless steel, layered containers that regulars can buy and bring back for refills. But the really interesting thing to watch with this place is the clientele - at around £7 for a Thali (minus extras like chapattis and chutneys) and in the heart of studentville, we wonder how long it will remain the domain of the yuppy.

www.onestopthali.co.uk

Hannah Welham

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